The way, accomodation, resupply, daily stages, GPS track of the hike through the northern part of the Iberian Cordillera (or Iberian System) via the Sierra de la Demanda and the Moncayo.
From the Atlantic to the Mediterranean, this is the first part of my long distance hike of the Six Seas which then continues with the East-West hike through Sardinia, the south of Italy from the Amalfi Coast to the heel of the boot and the Balkans from the port of Durrës in Albania to Bulgaria at Cape Emine on the shores of the Black Sea.
The way
During my TransIberian Trail in 2024, I hiked through the Iberian Cordillera, but on its southern section (Javalambre, Camino Natural del Tajo, etc.). This time, the goal is to explore the northern part of this mountain range, including the Sierra de la Demanda, and then to hike to Moncayo, the highest peak in the Iberian system at 2,314 meters. I incorporated this hike into my “Six Seas Trail”, which connect the Atlantic Ocean to the Black Sea.
The way begins on the ocean’s edge, in Gaztegulatxe, and ends in Peñíscola on the Mediterranean coast. The first part, in the Basque Country and the Burgos region, goes through natural sites such as the Nervión waterfall and the Purón River gorge. The second part is at a higher altitude in the Sierra de la Demanda, notably including the Neila and Urbión lakes, and of course, Moncayo. I’ll hike this section during summer to be there for the total eclipse. Finally, the third part, mainly in Aragon, passes through natural sites (Castillos de la Sierra de Armantes, the footbridges of La Hoz Mala, the Montoro Organs) and typical villages (Villarluengo, Mirambel, Morella…).
All the pictures and where I am
By clicking on the image below:
Useful informations :
Resupply :
Water : From the Basque Country to Briviesca, there are not often springs or fountains, but the route frequently passes through villages (where there is usually a water tap). See the table below for more details.
Food : There are several places to buy supplies in the Basque Country. However, there aren’t really any grocery stores between Amurrio and Briviesca. See the table below for more details.
Accommodation : From the Basque Country to Briviesca, in the spring, it is possible to find rooms for around €40 a night.
Bivouac in Spain : The regulations concerning the bivouac and wild camping is a competence of the autonomous communities with specific rules in certain natural areas.
Basque Country: Bivouacking may be authorized by municipalities.
Castilla y León: Bivouacking is prohibited outside of designated areas.
La Rioja: Wild camping is prohibited.
Aragon: Wild camping is prohibited with fines for violations, but this does not appear to apply to bivouacking (it is permitted under certain conditions in the region’s natural parks).
Valencia: No specific regulations other than the landowner’s permission.
Natural protected areas :
Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve
Mount Santiago Natural Monument : Wild camping prohibited
Natural park of Montes Obarenes – San Zadornil : Wild camping prohibited
Natural park of the Neila Glacial Lagoons
Natural park of Laguna Negra and glacial cirques of Urbión
Natural park of Sierra Cebollera : Camping is prohibited outside of designated areas.
Natural park of Moncayo : Wild camping prohibited.
Montoro Organs Natural Monument
Natural park of Sierra de Irta : Wild camping prohibited.
Trail marks : Good network of well-marked trails in the Basque Country. Beyond that, mostly marked “short hikes” trails and junctions via farm tracks.
Difficulties :
Weather :
Network :
Equipment : see the list of my equipment in the introduction page of
Internet websites :
Natural Parks of Castilla-La Mancha: downloadable maps, guides, route descriptions, etc.
La Rioja: map of trails and points of interest in La Rioja.
In the province of Soria, see the website for the GR 86 Sendero Ibérico Soriano with GPS tracks and stage descriptions.
The Aragon website is very well done, with a map and a page presenting the region’s trails.
Valencia region: map and description of trails
Site of the Natural Parks of the Valencia region: possibility to download plans, guides, itinerary descriptions…
El Camí: map and description of this path which crosses the 3 Catalan-speaking regions (Catalonia, Valencia and Balearic Islands)
GPS track – Maps :
To draw a track, the website Brouter.de (see video) allows to draw following the existing ways and trails.
When I’m on my way, I’m using the Iphigénie application. With it, you can have the topographic maps of the Spanish Geographical Institute (accessible without connection). You can also have offline OpenTopoMap. Those maps are good with paths, huts, springs… It’s also possible to send beacons of your position (if there is network); this can be reassuring on certain occasions.
The application Mapy .cz is great also with marked trails, springs, points of interest, shelters, huts… It is possible to download the maps to have access offline.
GPS track :
Warning! This is a plan way. It will be updated upon my return. Always take into account the reality on the ground. If the way goes through private land, ensure you have the owner’s permission.
Link to download the GPX track :
The stages :
| Cordillère Ibérique Nord | Km | Cumul km | D+ | Info |
| Cap Matxitxako | ||||
| Gaztelugatxe | 5 | 5 | 200 | Robinet en bas. Bars et restaurants au bord de la route en haut |
| Mañu Auzoa | 8 | 13 | 530 | Bar-restaurant |
| Arrieta | 9 | 22 | 420 | Bar-restaurant |
| Fruiz | 3 | 25 | 10 | Bar-restaurant |
| 1 Cap Matxitxako / Gaztelugatxe – Fruiz | Sentiers et piste puis un bout de GR123 pour monter sur les collines. Poursuite ensuite par des pistes forestières et des sentiers pour rejoindre le GR280. De l’eau en bas de Gaztelugatxe. Un robinet au hameau d’Agirre. 26km 1200m de dénivelés positifs | |||
| Zamudio | 12 | 37 | 410 | Hotel Artea Errota Tél.+34 944 52 34 57 – Hotel Aretxarte Tél.+34 944 03 69 00 |
| Bilbao | 8 | 45 | 330 | Auberges Pèlerins – Tous services |
| Arrankuko Etxola – Refugio Biderdi | 10 | 55 | 740 | Refuge non gardé en très bon état |
| 2 Fruiz – Arrankuko Etxola (Refugio Biderdi) | Sur le GR280 jusqu’à Zamudio (sauf un peu plus direct après Fika) puis Camino del Norte jusqu’à Bilbao. Sortie de la ville par le GR228 mais en prenant un chemin plus direct à la montée. La traversée de la partie urbaine de Bilbao est finalement courte. 30km 1480m de dénivelés positifs | |||
| Laudio | 11 | 66 | 140 | Hotel Valle de Ayala Tél.+34 946 72 36 11 |
| Amurrio | 15 | 81 | 710 | Hospedaje Albizabal Tél.+34 945 31 16 20 – Hostal Ayala Tél.+34 945 89 04 52 – Hotel Aldama Tél.+34 945 06 66 46 |
| 3 Arrankuko Etxola (Refugio Biderdi) – Amurrio | Du refuge, bon le GR123 jusqu’à Laudio. Pistes et sentiers de Laudio à Amurrio. Bonne source 2km après le refuge. 26km 850m de dénivelés positifs | |||
| Borda San Bitores | 12 | 93 | 590 | Abri fermé mais vaste préau devant pour s’abriter. |
| Salto del Nervión | 10 | 103 | 470 | |
| Berberana | 8 | 111 | 140 | Bar-restaurant. Auberge à 4km à Villalba de Losa |
| Valpuesta | 10 | 121 | 590 | |
| 4 Amurrio – Valpuesta | À partir de Etxegoien, pistes et sentiers. La montée au col de Fraileburu est raide mais sur un bon sentier. Une fois sur le plateau, sentiers balisés jusqu’à Berberana. Pistes puis sentier de Berberana à la Peñalta. La fin est raide. J’ai coupé par rapport à la trace sur les cartes Openstreetmap. C’est raide mais cela passe bien. Jusqu’à Valpuesta, pistes (balisage à la descente). De l’eau dans la montée vers le plateau vers 500m d’altitude. 40km 1790m de dénivelés positifs | |||
| San Millán de San Zadornil | 3 | 124 | 20 | Bar-restaurant |
| San Zadornil | 2 | 126 | 90 | |
| Herrán | 12 | 138 | 360 | Hotel Torre de Los Templarios Tél.+34 698 27 24 42 – bar |
| Quintana Martín Galíndez | 6 | 144 | 90 | Albergue Valle de Tobalina Tél.+34 607 81 63 64 – Hotel Valle de Tobalina Tél.+34 698 27 24 42 |
| 5 Valpuesta – Quintana Martín Galíndez | En suivant le GR282 puis par des chemins agricoles de Herrán à Quintana Martín Galíndez. 24km 550m de dénivelés positifs | |||
| Frías | 9 | 153 | 160 | Camping Tél.+34 621 03 85 58 – Hotel rural Frías Tél.+34 601 60 98 79 – boulangeries, boucherie. |
| Tobera | 2 | 155 | 50 | Hotel Las Cascadas de Tobera Tél.+34 693 75 86 11 – bar |
| Ranera | 4 | 159 | 280 | Hotel Rural Río Molinar Tél.+34 947 573 122 |
| La Aldea | 4 | 163 | 60 | El Hacedor Tél.+34 634 41 53 02 |
| 6 Quintana Martín Galíndez – La Aldea | Chemin agricole jusqu’à Montejo de San Miguel puis GR99 le long de l’Èbre. De Frías à Ranera pat le sentier PR-BU15 puis chemin agricole pour terminer. 19km 570m de dénivelés positifs | |||
| Busto de Bureba | 7 | 170 | 240 | Camping Tél.+34 639 50 74 33 – Albergue Busto de Bureba Tél.+34 619 33 61 81 |
| Calzada de Bureba | 6 | 176 | 50 | Hostal Juli Dos Tél.+34 642 65 59 53 |
| Briviesca | 12 | 188 | 180 | Albergue peregrinos Tél.+34 947 59 39 39 – Hostal La Vid Tél.+34 604 87 31 24 – Hotel Isabel Tél.+34 947 59 29 59 – |
| 7 La Aldea – Briviesca | Par un sentier jusqu’au Portillo de Busto puis des chemins agricoles et la fin monotone, plate et avec du bitume sur le camino basque de l’intérieur ou voie de Bayonne. 24km 480m de dénivelés positifs | |||
| Bañuelos de Bureba | 8 | 196 | 210 | |
| Carrias | 2 | 198 | 100 | |
| Espinosa del Camino | 13 | 211 | 310 | La Taberna de Espinosa Tél.+34 649 03 46 61 – El Gato Loco Tél.+34 608 93 72 99 – bar, restaurant |
| Villambistia | 2 | 213 | 10 | Albergue municipal Tél.+34 670 74 26 77 – Casa de los Deseos Tél.+34 947 10 85 88 – bar, restaurant |
| Pradoluengo | 17 | 230 | 540 | Albergue municipal Tél.+34 619 33 61 81 – Hostal Adela Tél. +34 623 06 53 19 – Hotel CasaBarría Tél.+34 623 06 53 19 |
| Refugio de Tres Aguas | 16 | 246 | 900 | |
| Monterrubio de la Demanda | 22 | 268 | 1 060 | |
| Huerta de Arriba | 7 | 275 | 180 | |
| Lagunas de Neila | 13 | 288 | 940 | Cabanes (à priori, il faut réserver et payer à la maison du parc Tél.+34 947 39 49 09) |
| Lagunas Negra | 22 | 310 | 1 110 | Restaurants |
| Santa Cruz de Yanguas | 48 | 358 | 1 720 | |
| Bretun | 8 | 366 | 160 | |
| San Pedro Manrique | 15 | 381 | 420 | Hostal Paso del Fuego Tél.+34 975 38 12 54 |
| Ágreda | 42 | 423 | 1 490 | Hostal Doña Juana Tél.+34 976 64 72 17 |
| Refugio Majada Baja | 20 | 443 | 1 720 | Cabane |
| Refugio de Cerrogordo | 6 | 449 | 20 | |
| Aranda de Moncayo | 23 | 472 | 700 | Casa Maidevera Tél.+34 976 82 50 49 |
| Aniñón | 22 | 494 | 700 | Complejo turístico Lifara Tél.+34 976 89 94 62 – Hostel El Castillo Tél.+34 658 57 94 51 |
| Calatayud | 18 | 512 | 290 | Habitaciones La Perla Tél.+34 643 06 95 34 – Habitaciones Santa Marta Tél.+34 678 48 42 08 – Hotel Fornos Tél.+34 976 88 78 80 – Hospedería Mesón de la Dolores Tél.+34 976 88 90 55 |
| Tobed | 28 | 540 | 960 | |
| Refugio de Collarte | 4 | 544 | 400 | Avec fontaine |
| Encinacorba | 13 | 557 | 490 | |
| Cerveruela | 12 | 569 | 400 | Casa rural El Tío Carrascón Tél.+34 633 03 01 25 |
| Bea | 28 | 597 | 1 110 | |
| Torrecilla del Rebollar | 20 | 617 | 470 | |
| Mezquita de Jarque | 36 | 653 | 880 | |
| Aliaga | 18 | 671 | 40 | Camping Aliaga Tél.+34 650 33 48 71 – Albergue de Aliaga Tél.+34 722 73 53 68 – Hotel La Parra Tél.+34 978 77 10 08 |
| Montoro de Mezquita | 12 | 683 | 210 | Casa rural El Bailador Tél.+34 647 19 13 47 |
| Río Pitarque | 7 | 690 | 90 | Hotel La Trucha Tél.+34 628 67 57 43 |
| Villarluengo | 4 | 694 | 310 | Fonda Josefina Tél.+34 978 77 31 51 |
| Tronchón | 19 | 713 | 610 | Casa Rural Conesa Tél.+34 608 06 97 57 |
| Mirambel | 8 | 721 | 240 | |
| La Cuba | 5 | 726 | 310 | El Cantón Tél.+34 964 18 00 92 |
| Morella | 30 | 756 | 1 100 | Hostal La Muralla Tél.+34 964 16 02 43 – Hotel El Cid Tél.+34 964160125 – Hotel Rey Don Jaime Tél.+34 964160911 – Fonda Moreno Tél.+34 964 16 01 05 – commerces |
| Vallibona | 18 | 774 | 560 | Hostal La Carbonera Tél.964 172 000 – 666 203 216 |
| Xert | 20 | 794 | 780 | |
| Sant Mateu | 9 | 803 | 110 | Hostal La Perdi Tél.+34 639 63 35 52 – Mesón Kubano Tél.+34 645 85 67 10 – Hotel Montesa Tél.+34 964 41 60 00 |
| Santa Magdalena de Polpís | 24 | 827 | 650 | |
| Peñíscola | 12 | 839 | 440 | |
| 839 | 839 | 29 510 | ||